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A Kerchief Causing Mischief
October 2008 | Issue #4 | Joanna Clay
It seems the scarf has become the new go-to accessory replacing the vintage bangle or the hobo knitted cap of 2007. More specifically the Arab-inspired kerchief has become popular worldwide. While studying abroad in Barcelona I would walk the open-air markets and see the plethora of bufandas in every color of the rainbow. Starting in Europe, the Palestinian scarf has become iconic of hippie and grunge fashion. Typically white with the checkered pattern in black or red, cotton strings dangle from the edges. Worn folded in the front with the ends wrapped around to fall at your neck; every person under thirty was wearing them.
My friend Thomas sent me a link, comically commenting on how Urban Outfitters (who later pulled the product) was making knock-offs of the reputed fashion accessory; muting the colors, adding metallic and making the classic print a little less noticeable. However, when you wear something that has symbolic value...is it important to know the meaning? Or is fashion simply...fashion? Only a superficial appearance or a representation of who you really are? Recently it has changed from an outlet of self-expression to a means of association, sometimes unknowingly.
Not too long ago, Rachel Ray was chosen as the spokesperson for Dunkin Donuts new Iced Coffee. In the commercial she is shown wearing a Palestinian-inspired scarf. This last minute touch by a celebrity stylist sparked a lot of commotion leading to the eventual discontinuation of the ad. Conservative critics called the 30-minute-meal-maker a Muslim extremist and terrorist supporter. Is this valid? Do these accusations hold any merit or is it simply fear based in mongrelizing the enemy?
It's hard to say. The printed scarf, formally known as a keffiyeh in Arabic brings the head-covered image of Palestinian leader, Yassar Arafat, to many American minds. Especially during the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, Americans find it difficult to "associate with the enemy" or wear anything with extremist connotations even if it bears little resemblance to the silk scarf Arafat wore; a pattern that bore more likeness to a chain-link fence than a picnic tablecloth. The way it is worn in the western world is more as an addition to your wardrobe than a protectant used to shield sun and sand. We're all human and the way you chose to dress is not the only indicator of your identity, there are many other variables. However in this visually saturated culture, we do associate symbols with ideas. The same way we reacted to Prince Harry and his Halloween Nazi uniform, we react to these symbols of past or present conflict with a tinge of fear.
The Israeli-Palestine conflict is sensitive and support for either side can cause a bitter debate that ends in hostility. The US and Israel consider Palestine's largest political group, Hamas, a terrorist organization.
I think the real issue is education. If you decide to buy something that has certain connotations, understand them. In Europe the issue is less polarizing since most of the countries support Palestine, not Israel. Many westerners don't understand that to many, it appears they are taking a side when they don this colorful addition to their neck. As society becomes more complex, so do its manifestations and customs. Fashion has changed from survival wear to one-day wear, from necessity to accessory. We put people into categories and we use everything to make our judgments. What you wear, how you smell, how you talk, what you say, your religion, and your hometown- all these are taken into consideration. A piece of cotton shouldn’t be the end-all to your identity but we must be conscientious of the image we project. Once we are, none of that really matters anymore.
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